Honda used an array of various types of electrical switches in the 1960s. Let’s look at a selection and see what they have in common among the various models.
Ignition switches:
CB72-77 models basically used the same ignition switch for all models. Key codes might be T-series or some of the harder to source NA/NB types. In the early, early models, the key codes were just 4 numbers and no letter code. When Honda started re-issuing the ignition switches, they used the later series number/letters like a 14H or something similar. The only other switch option was for the CYP77 Police bikes which had a 4 position switch vs. the standard 3 position switch for common street bikes. The three positions are OFF, ON for all systems, and OFF. When the ignition switch is ON, the headlights, instrument lights and tail light are controlled by a separate HEADLIGHT switch on the headlight shell.
CL72-77 models first used an elongated CB72 switch, which had an extended barrel section to allow the plastic latch to secure the side cover to the bike. After that, the redesign was an adapter that bolted to the frame and the switch with 2 small screws. The threads on the adapter held the side cover latch. Because of the difference in diameters of the two types, there are two different latches of different ID/OD dimensions. The three positions are OFF, ON for all systems, and OFF. When the ignition switch is ON, the headlights, instrument lights and tail light are controlled by a separate HEADLIGHT switch on the headlight shell.
C/CA72-77 Dream models had a big plastic 6 pin harness connector, plus some extra wires to operate the Dream ignition and lighting functions. The US switch had 5 positions CRANK, OFF (key comes out), ON for ignition, brake light, horn and neutral light, then Lighting position, and finally the PARK position (key comes out). JDM and EURO models used a 6 position switch, which included one stop for the little position/park light located in the headlight reflector, which was required for numerous countries. The Dreams share the headlight switch with the 125-150-160 Benly models.
Lighting switches:
CB72-77 models generally have a 4 wire headlight switch with a single ON-OFF function. The CB switch has a 268-810 product code for use in the US models.
CL72-77 models used an early 5 wire switch which has 2 ON functions, one of which is for the little position/park light used in non-US models. The CL switch comes with a 270 product code, stemming from the CM72 model. There is no real use for the 3 position switch on US bikes, but many seem to be equipped with them.
C/CA72-77 lighting functions come as part of the Dream ignition switch.
Brake light switches:
CB brake light switches came in two versions. Early models had spring-loaded terminal ends which captured the tinned wire ends for the brake light wiring. Later versions had the switch wiring harness attached to the switch permanently. CB/CL160s use a similar brake switch.
CL72-77 brake light switches are a press OFF plunger function. When the rear brake linkage is at rest, the brake pedal pushes up against the end of the switch plunger in an OFF position. When the brake pedal is depressed, the switch plunger extends and closes the contacts inside the switch to illuminate the brake light function. This is the only switch of this type, as all others are a pull-ON type where a spring is attached to the plunger and the contacts are connected when the switch plunger is pulled out of the switch housing.
C/CA72-77 brake light switches are basically the same as the same metal CB switch (also the CB160), but the switch is activated by a complex set of levers and springs which activate the switch when the brake pedal is depressed.
Starter solenoids:
CB72-77 solenoids are bolted to the bottom of the tool box and the terminals and connection wires face the left side of the bike frame. The solenoids are “hot” all the time and the way to activate them is a small yellow/red wire that runs up the wiring harness and through the handlebars to the starter button switch on the throttle housing. When the button is depressed, it connects to ground through the handlebars and forks, to complete the circuit, enabling the solenoid to close the contacts inside which bridge the battery contacts and the starter motor contacts.
CL72-77 NONE
C/CA72-77 Dreams mount the starter solenoid under the distribution box on the right side of the frame under the side cover. It is mounted next to the ignition coil and the rectifier. It is activated in the same manner as the CB solenoid.
Dimmer switches:
All three models share the basically same dimmer switch designs, apart from the length of the switch harness that run through the handlebars on the CB and C/CA models. The CL models have the switch harness running outside of the handlebars, affixed to the bars with a clip to the clutch cable. CB/CL160s also use a similar switch.
Winker switches:
Because turn signals were not permitted in the US until 1968, no US model bikes have a winker/turn signal switch on the throttle side. US wiring harnesses do not have the extra wires for the winker system, as well. Many people have sourced the rare switches from outside of the country and used them in conjunction with the correct harnesses with the winker wiring included. While this makes the bikes legal, as required in some states and everywhere else, the actual function of the turn signal switch is awkward as it requires the use of the throttle hand thumb to release the throttle somewhat to activate the left or right (UP or DOWN) switch contacts and again to turn the switch back to the center neutral position. It is definitely not as smooth as the later model Hondas with the turn signal switch function built into the left side dimmer switch.
Neutral switches:
Thankfully, ALL 250-305 Honda models have the same neutral switch mounted on the end of the shift drum, underneath the kickstarter cover. The problem with the switches is that, over time, the solder joint fails at the switch contact which is the ground connection for the neutral light bulb circuit. If you are very careful, you can re-solder the wire end back to the original location. Too much heat will cause the internal contact to loosen in the plastic case and then it retreats away from the rotating contact piece inside the switch. You can gently pry them apart and clean and re-solder the wire, insuring that the contact piece is still flush with the body, so the rotating contact will touch the wire contact at the correct time.
Horn switch:
Like the starter button function, the horn button is tucked into the dimmer switch and provides the ground connection to complete the horn circuit which is “hot” all the time when the ignition switch is ON. In both cases of the starter and horn wires, if the handlebar switches rotate due to a fall or improper installation, the tiny 22 gauge wires will get pinched and grounded against the handlebar metal. You will know this when the ignition switch is turned to the ON position and the starter or horn instantly are activated. Shut the ignition switch OFF and attend to the wire grounding issue. The wire that comes out of the little plate, which mounts behind the button, can easily become grounded against the button hold-down plate. Soldering the wire back to the contact plate for the button is tricky business, but needs to be insulated from any metal contact when the switch is reattached to the handlebars.
12/2025
Bill Silver aka MrHonda
