Honda churned out somewhere around 250,000 of the 1960-67
250-305cc twins. 60+ years later, they still turn up from the back of someone’s
garage or at a swap meets, etc.; and people have questions! Because of the
depth of changes within each of the three models: Dream, Scrambler and Super
Hawk, I can only skim the top of the subject,
but hopefully this story will help to defuse some of the confusion about
these classic machines.
Rule #1
They are NOT all the same. There are “early” and “late”
Dreams, Scramblers and Super Hawks with changes that are external and internal.
Always use the serial numbers for reference when seeking parts or just asking
for help. For the most part, the overall engine and tuning specifications are
quite similar within each model, but there are deviations that can be important
if you are going in deep on a repair or restoration.
Rule #2
Like cars of the era, these are battery-powered motorcycles.
While the permanent magnet charging systems can generate sufficient spark to
get an engine started, they really need a fully-charged battery and functioning
charging system to operate normally. If you jump start any of these bikes and
then let the charging system wrestle with a dead/dying battery the charging
system will pump out as much as 40volts AC into the 12v electrical system
blowing up all the light bulbs and often damaging the rectifiers.
Because of
changes in the 12N9-3A batteries used in CB72-77 and later model CA77 Dreams,
you MUST look for the ones with the extended posts, not the ones with small vertical
posts. There are TWO different batteries used on the Dreams. They DO NOT
interchange and the correct one must be used to match up with the different
battery box, tool tray, battery ground and side cover options for each type.
Rule #3
Because of poor storage or neglect, the engines are often
found to be seized solidly. Moisture build up inside the cylinders will cause
water to corrode the cylinder walls and piston rings into the ring lands.
Depending upon just how badly seized it is, using a penetrating oil to help
unstick the pistons can be successful in allowing rotation of the crankshaft
again. Some people have been successful in getting these engines running again,
but usually the cylinder bores are damaged, causing further damage to the
pistons/rings.
Invariably the piston rings are stuck in the piston ring
lands and are unable to do their normal function of sealing up against the
cylinder walls. Because the piston clearances are so small (often just one or two thousandths of an
inch), the engines appear to have compression and will run. The corrosion is
generally so severe that even running the engines for hours will not release
the rings from the pistons for normal operation. Eventually, the lack of piston
ring control and damage to the cylinder walls causes blowby and exhaust smoke.
Excess oil in the cylinders will foul the spark plugs and eventually use up the
1.5liters of oil that the engines depend upon for normal operation. Plan on re-boring
the cylinders and replacing the pistons and rings, at the very least. OEM
pistons are increasingly hard to find and when you do the prices are beyond
silly ($200 each). CB and CA pistons can be swapped into other engines, with
only a slight change in compression readings. Early Dream pistons had thick 2mm rings, but eventually
were superseded by a version using thinner 1.5mm CB rings. https:// classichondarestoration.com has forged
piston kits available as replacements for the cast OEM pistons.
Rule #4
Clean the centrifugal oil filter! Depending on the year of
production, cleaning the filter may or may not require removal of the whole
clutch cover. Later “big hole” clutch covers facilitate filter removal and
replacement without cover removal, but it is a bit tricky to accomplish. The
spinning oil filter is driven by a small crankshaft sprocket-driven chain.
There is a thrust washer on the shaft that must be placed on the outside of the
filter to prevent the locating pin from gouging the outer cover. There is a small o-ring that seals the cover
to the filter body. Replace the o-ring if damaged. They can often be reused if
installed correctly. The filter body must be thoroughly cleaned, along with the
inside of the cover. Any leftover scraps will go directly into the crankshaft
bearings, so be diligent in your cleaning efforts.
In proper working order, these engines use very little oil,
but some will be burned in normal operation. Make sure that the crankcases are
filled to the top mark on the dipstick before riding out for any distance.
These engines do not have valve stem seals; however a clever air bleed system
on the intake valve guides helps to lessen the oil consumption past the valve
stems. Honda’s GN4 10-30 oil is more
than sufficient for normal operating conditions.
When these engines were originally
built, oil technology was in its infancy in many respects. Honda specified
non-detergent oils originally, counting on regular oil changes to keep the
engine clean inside. The problem with non-detergent oils is that they don’t
help suspend particles in the oil like today’s detergent oils do
successfully.
It isn’t a bad idea to pull down the oil pump to check the
screen for damage and for the presence of thick, mucky oil deposits and
contaminants. Virtually every engine I have torn down has had a thick layer of
deposits lying in the bottom of the engine cases. Even with detergent oils,
when these engines sit for years unused, the suspended contaminants eventually
fall out of suspension and wind up in the bottom of the engine.
Rule #5
ALWAYS ensure that the engine spark timing/advance is set
properly. Check the timing with the engine running, using a dynamic timing
light. Static spark timing is fine to get the engine running, but you must
check it with the timing light when the engine is running to prevent piston
seizures and help smooth out idling speed problems and carburetion setting
issues. The spark advancer system is built into the camsprocket inside the
engine.
Many things can and do go wrong with this design. Wear can develop
between the spark advancer shaft and the camshaft that it rides in, causing
sideplay in the points cam. The return springs can weaken or break, causing
lazy spark advance return. The camsprocket is riveted together and eventually
the rivets loosen up, allowing the camchain sprocket to loosen and walk back
and forth within the mechanism. There is also some slop between the end of the
points cam shaft and the plate that it engages in, within the camsprocket
assembly causing some initial spark advance on start up. Honda Dream
camsprockets have heavier weights and lighter return springs to speed up the
spark timing on those models.
Camsprockets used on CB/CL models have lighter, smaller weights and stiffer
return springs compared to those of the Dream models.
Rule #6
There are some “universal” engine parts that are shared
within all three engine types. The kickstarter shafts, shift drums (except
rotary gearbox types), primary chain tensioners, shift forks and shift selector
shafts are usually the same in all models. 1960-62 shift shafts were shorter
than later versions, however. Dreams have a completely different set of
transmission ratios than the shared CB/CL gearboxes. There are 4 different
clutch assembly setups, depending upon the application. The camchains, camchain
guide rollers and camchain tensioners are all interchangeable, however the
camchain tensioners have two different bolt patterns, changing in 1966.
Rule #7
There are “round bowl” and “square bowl” carburetor types,
but they will interchange on various models. The round bowl versions came
first, replaced by square bowl designs around 1964 for most models. You can interchange the CB and CL77
carburetors if you swap out the jetting components.
Carbs come in 22mm and 26mm sizes for 250 and 305cc models,
respectively. The 22mm carburetors for the 250s (and 305 Dreams) are all
different in function and mounting points. Only the CB72 Super Hawks have the
“power jet” carburetor functions. The CL72 Scrambler carburetors look identical,
externally, however the power jet functions were deleted.
Dream carburetors for 250-305s are interchangeable
with minor jetting adjustments. Good carb parts source, as well as other
250-305 repair parts is www.4into1.com or https:// classichondarestoration.com The most
common problem with carburetors is that the mounting flanges become warped,
causing air leaks. Second most common problem is that the slide bores become
distorted, causing the slides to stick when the engines heat up. With careful
work, both conditions can be overcome.
Rule #8
Crankshafts all differ between the three models, as well as
having a different balance factor between the 250 and 305s. The biggest
challenge in rebuilding these engines is that the wrist pin holes in the un-bushed
small rod ends get out of round, causing a part-throttle “chatter” sound. Honda
made .004” oversized pins, however machining the pin bores to match is quite
difficult with the crankshaft in its full assembly mode. Competent machine shops can press the
crankshafts apart, bore the rods to the oversize and/or re-bush the rods back
to stock size again. Obviously, this will become an expensive repair step, if
needed. The majority of the engines I have taken apart have had loose pin fits
after 10k miles. If the engines have ever had a running piston seizure, the
chances of rod damage are quite high.
Rule #9
The electric starter versions of these engines (CA/CB72-77)
have a total of 5 chains in place to operate the motorcycle. The original
primary chains, which connect the crankshaft to the clutch outer, stretch
easily and begin to strike the inside surfaces of the clutch cover when they
are out of spec. OEM primary chains are pretty much extinct, however a
chain/sprocket company in the UK has come up with an endless 3/8x3/8 chain
which works perfectly in these engines. They can also supply the tiny oil
filter drive chain, camchains and starter chains. In a pinch, camchains can be
cut up and shortened for use in the electric starter models. www.sprocketsunlimited.com
Rule #10
Rebuilding the petcocks on the CB and CL models is fairly
straight forward and plenty of repair kits are available. Reserve tubes can crack or become broken off
after 50 years of use. Overflow tubes can be replaced with 5mm brass tubing
from a hobby shop. Dream petcocks are a whole different animal. They share a
lot of internal parts with the 125-150 Benly models, however the outlet
fittings are on opposite sized from each other, so the bodies are not
interchangeable. Most aftermarket repair kits are not properly made, so cause
installation and sealing problems. Most
of the internal sealing parts are still available from Honda warehouses and are
highly recommended. A few parts are NLA in the US, but can be sourced from eBay
sellers in Thailand and other Asian countries. Look out for warped petcock
bodies that no longer seal properly against the bottom of the fuel tanks.
Obviously, there are many areas of these bikes that require careful
study so that any parts purchases are not wasted due to a lack of knowledge
about the kinds of changes that have occurred over the years. I offer
comprehensive digital download packages of restoration reference files that are
targeted for each of the 3 models. See
my site: www.vintagehonda.com for
details and to order. I always welcome questions and can often guide people in
the right direction for parts purchases and other restoration resources around
the world.
Bill Silver aka MrHonda