The
engines have the same architecture among the three versions. All of the engine
cases are basically the same, apart from the early ones not having a primary
chain tensioner mounted. They are not “machine matched” at the factory. The
1960-61 cases and cylinders had a different oil supply feed for the top end,
thus there are two different base gaskets. The 1960-61 engines had a “rear
breather” system cast into the back of the top case, which allowed the
crankcase to be relieved of pressure during operation. 1962 and later engines
used a breather plate and drain tube coming from the top cylinder head cover.
1960-61
cylinder heads used a small 10mm spark plug, changed to 12mm in 1962. Pre-1965
heads had an inverted U-shape design in the forward fins, which was changed to
a sharper V shape from 1965 onwards.
The
die-cast cylinders, introduced in 1966, used a narrower camchain tensioner to
allow better air flow between the cylinders. The cylinders will all interchange
between the various engines, apart from the previously mentioned 1960-61 oiling
passage differences.
Honda
Dream intake valves are smaller in diameter than those used on the CB/CL
models. They do share the same exhaust valves, after 1962.
The
camshaft sprockets and locking nuts were changed in 1962 from right hand
threads to left hand threads. There are about four different
camshaft/camsprocket spline patterns which precludes any attempts to mix and
match camshafts and camsprockets from other years.
Early
transmissions had straight cut gear dogs, finally upgraded to back cut dogs
which offer better dog engagement and fewer missed shifts.
The
shift forks, shift drum, kickstarter shaft, kickstarter pawl/spring/plunger are
universal parts fitting any and all 250-305 engines, except Dreams with rotary
gearboxes. There are two different lengths of shift shafts, changed around
1962.
There
was a change to “shallow spline” shafts in 1967 which included the crankshaft
and primary drive sprocket as well as the transmission input and output shafts.
You can use the later shallow spline sprockets on early deep spline shafts, but
not the other way around.
Honda
used both Nippon Denso and Kokusan ignition and charging system components. Using
mismatched branded points is a no-go with these ignition systems. Use of
aftermarket point sets from Daiichi on a Dream is also a no-go, as they do not
allow proper timing adjustments. For best results, used ND points on ND point
plates. ND parts have a -004 suffix, while Kokusan have -005 parts suffixes.
Either brand might be found on a Dream engine, so pay attention before you
order your parts.
The
point cam/advancer shafts which run through the inside of the right camshafts
come in 2 outside diameters which match the ID of the holes on matching
camshafts. They don’t interchange! Check the return action of the camshaft
sprocket return springs before assembly. The springs should return the weights
back to resting position. Remove excess slop by pinching the ends of the
springs very slightly. Check the camsprocket for any looseness in the rivets
which hold it together.
The
ends of the intake and exhaust rocker arm pins are 2 different diameters. They
don’t interchange either! There are two types of rocker arms, but all will
interchange.
I use
Honda’s GN4 motorcycle oil in 10-30wt for most applications. Honda originally
specified non-detergent oils, but that technology has been far advanced by
current motorcycle-rated oil products on the market now. Full synthetic oils
are really not necessary unless you are involved with racing activities and
even those may not require synthetic oils. Normally, these engines are pretty
oil tight, but synthetic oil molecules are so small that they can work their
way past old seals and gaskets.
Speaking
of gaskets, most of the original gasket materials were all or partially made
from asbestos, so be very careful with scraping and grinding away on stuck-on
gaskets from the past 60 years.
Last time I checked, Honda’s
“suggested retail price” for ONE 250-305 piston was $186... for ONE piston. Tim
McDowell has replacement WISCO forged pistons available with and without
sleeves for less money. https://classichondarestoration.com/
You can interchange CA pistons
with CB pistons and the other way around. Just find a matched set of whatever
you can find and it will be fine. OEM Honda pistons have ART cast into the
sides and CB/CL77 pistons have CB77 marked on the sides as well. There are a fair number of aftermarket
replacements, made back in the 1960s, which may not be quite right. I have
found some that have too small piston pin holes. The piston crowns on early and
late pistons are quite different. Whichever ones you use, get a matching set
for installation. Aftermarket pistons might need a smidge more clearance than
OEM pistons, which I usually have clearance at .0015” (one and a half
thousandths).
MrHonda
has the center camchain guide rollers in stock a which fit all 250-305s. Contact me through my site: www.vintagehonda.com
HI.COULD YOU POSSIBLY ANSWER A QUESTION THAT I CANT FIND THE ANSWER FOR.I HAVE A 1964 CA77.WHEN I RUN THE ENGINE A LOT OF OIL DRIPS FROM A CAST HOLE NEAR THE OIL PUMP ON THE BTM OF THE RIGHT CRANKCASE.IT LOOKS LIKE THE HOLE WAS CAST INTO THE CASING AND NOT A BREAK.HAVE YOU ANY IDEA WHY IT IS LEAKING OIL.I LIVE IN THE UK AND CANNOT FIND ANYONE WHO CAN ANSWER IT.
ReplyDeleteREGARDS
BRIAN
Those are formed to allow the crankcase to drain if either water gets in around the top of the crankcase valley but usually is a sign that one of several oil seals are leaking beneath the kickstarter cover. There are seals for the crankshaft, starter clutch hub, kickstarter shaft, countershaft, neutral switch and clutch pushrod seal under the kickstarter cover.
ReplyDeleteBill Silver